You have just installed a new refrigerator, plugged it in, and started arranging your groceries. Then, without warning, you hear a sharp pop from inside the cabinet.
A few minutes later, it happens again.
It is easy to assume that something cracked during delivery or that an expensive component is already failing. In most cases, however, occasional popping or cracking is a normal part of a new refrigerator’s first cooling cycles.
The appliance begins at room temperature and must cool its interior liner, shelves, insulation, tubing, drawers, freezer compartment, and stored food. Plastic and metal components contract at different rates during this process, sometimes shifting suddenly and producing a noticeable pop.
Whirlpool identifies expansion and contraction of the refrigerator’s interior walls as a normal cause of popping, especially when the appliance cools for the first time or enters a defrost cycle. Samsung provides a similar explanation, noting that plastic components can crack or pop as the internal temperature rises and falls.
Your refrigerator may also make new sounds as the compressor starts, refrigerant circulates, the first defrost cycles occur, and the ice maker begins filling and dropping ice.
This guide explains why a new refrigerator makes popping noises, how long those sounds may remain noticeable, which installation problems you can safely correct, and when you should contact the installer, retailer, or manufacturer.
Table of Contents
ToggleQuick Answer
Your new refrigerator is probably making popping noises because the cabinet liner and internal components are contracting as the appliance cools from room temperature.
Other common causes include:
- The first automatic defrost cycles
- The compressor starting, stopping, or changing speed
- Refrigerant moving through the cooling system
- The ice maker filling for the first time
- Ice falling into an empty storage bin
- Air moving through a newly connected water line
- The refrigerator being out of level
- The cabinet touching a wall or kitchen unit
- A water line tapping against the back panel
- Shelves, bins, or bottles shifting
- A tight new door gasket
- Removable packing material left in place
An occasional pop with normal cooling is usually harmless.
The sound needs closer attention if it is continuous, extremely loud, accompanied by poor cooling, or combined with fan scraping, water leaks, smoke, sparks, a burning smell, or repeated electrical clicking.
Is It Normal for a New Refrigerator to Make Popping Noises?
Yes. Occasional popping, cracking, clicking, humming, bubbling, and buzzing can be normal during the first hours and days of operation.
A refrigerator is not a silent appliance. It contains several components that operate at different times, including:
- A compressor
- Evaporator and condenser fans
- Refrigerant tubing
- An automatic defrost system
- Temperature controls
- Air dampers
- A water inlet valve
- One or more ice makers
- Electronic relays and control boards
A normal new-refrigerator pop usually has these characteristics:
- It happens occasionally rather than continuously.
- It lasts only a moment.
- The refrigerator and freezer are becoming colder.
- It occurs when cooling starts or stops.
- It may happen during or after defrosting.
- It may coincide with ice production.
- No error code or warning appears.
- There is no smoke, burning smell, or electrical heat.
- The sound becomes less noticeable as temperatures stabilise.
Samsung states that a refrigerator is never completely quiet, even when new. Its support guidance explains that snapping, crackling, and popping can result from plastic parts contracting and expanding as internal temperatures change.
A popping sound is less likely to be normal when it occurs every few seconds, prevents the compressor from staying on, or appears alongside a noticeable loss of cooling.
Why Does a New Refrigerator Sound Different From an Old One?
A new refrigerator may use different technology from the appliance it replaced.
Modern models may include:
- Variable-speed compressors
- Multiple circulating fans
- Dual evaporators
- Motorised air dampers
- In-door ice makers
- Automatic humidity controls
- Electronic expansion or refrigerant valves
- Multiple temperature zones
- More insulation
- Thinner or lighter interior panels
These features can produce sounds you did not hear from an older refrigerator.
A more energy-efficient compressor may also run for longer periods at changing speeds instead of repeatedly switching fully on and off. Frigidaire notes that newer refrigerators may have energy-efficient compressors that run longer while maintaining stable temperatures.
Different operation does not automatically mean defective operation. The refrigerator’s temperature, noise pattern, and accompanying symptoms are more useful than comparing it directly with an older appliance.
Normal Popping vs. a Possible New-Refrigerator Problem
| What You Notice | Most Likely Explanation | Recommended Action |
|---|---|---|
| Occasional pops during the first cool-down | Interior materials contracting | Usually normal |
| Popping during or after defrosting | Coils, panels, and liners changing temperature | Monitor normal operation |
| A loud bang from the freezer | Ice falling into an empty bin | Usually normal |
| Buzzing before ice production | Water valve filling the ice maker | Check the water connection |
| Popping when the compressor starts | Pressure or cabinet movement | Usually normal if cooling continues |
| Noise after warm groceries are added | Increased cooling demand | Allow the refrigerator to recover |
| Popping after delivery | Cabinet settling or installation issue | Check level, clearance, and loose parts |
| Rattling or popping behind the refrigerator | Water line, power cord, or wall contact | Reposition the appliance or line |
| Repeated clicking with no cooling | Compressor, control, or electrical fault | Request professional diagnosis |
| Fast tapping or scraping in the freezer | Fan contacting ice or an obstruction | Arrange service |
| Popping with water leaking | Installation or appliance fault | Shut off the water supply if necessary and request help |
| Popping with smoke or a burning smell | Possible electrical fault | Disconnect power if it is safe |
What Causes a New Refrigerator to Make Popping Noises?
The timing and location of the sound usually provide the best clues.
1. The Refrigerator Is Cooling for the First Time
Initial cooling is the most common explanation.
A newly delivered refrigerator begins close to room temperature. After it is connected to power, the compressor and fans start removing heat from:
- The refrigerator compartment
- The freezer compartment
- Interior shelves
- Plastic liners
- Metal panels
- Insulation
- Air ducts
- Drawers and bins
- Food and drinks placed inside
This creates a larger temperature change than the appliance will experience during normal daily operation.
As the interior becomes colder, plastic and metal components contract. Because different materials change size at different rates, a panel or liner may remain under slight tension before suddenly shifting and making a pop.
Whirlpool specifically describes popping and cracking during the first cool-down as normal contraction and expansion of the refrigerator’s interior walls.
When Initial Cooling Noise Is Usually Normal
The sound is probably harmless when:
- It occurs occasionally.
- Cooling is gradually improving.
- The compressor remains running.
- Air is moving through the vents.
- The display shows no persistent error.
- The doors close and seal.
- The noise is not accompanied by grinding or electrical symptoms.
How Long Does Initial Cooling Take?
Many manufacturers advise allowing approximately 24 hours for a newly installed refrigerator to reach stable operation, although the exact cooling time depends on:
- Refrigerator size
- Room temperature
- Starting temperature
- Door openings
- Food load
- Model design
- Temperature settings
Whirlpool and Frigidaire both advise allowing roughly 24 hours for a newly installed refrigerator to reach full or stable operation.
Do not repeatedly change the temperature settings during this period. Each adjustment can extend the time required for the refrigerator to stabilise.
2. Cabinet Materials Are Settling
A refrigerator experiences movement during manufacturing, shipping, unloading, and installation.
Once the cabinet is standing in your kitchen and begins cooling, several materials may settle into their final operating positions:
- Plastic liners
- Insulation
- Metal cabinet panels
- Shelf supports
- Interior air ducts
- Door trim
- Refrigerant lines
- Compressor mounts
- Drain components
This does not mean the cabinet is coming apart. A small movement between connected materials can produce a surprisingly loud pop because the large hollow cabinet amplifies the sound.
Cabinet settling is more noticeable when:
- The refrigerator has just been delivered.
- It was carried up stairs.
- It was tilted during transport.
- It has been placed on an uneven floor.
- The surrounding room is very warm.
- The appliance is installed tightly between cabinets.
- The kitchen is quiet at night.
An occasional pop that becomes less frequent as the appliance stabilises is usually not a concern.
3. The First Automatic Defrost Cycles Are Occurring
Most modern refrigerators are frost-free. They periodically run an automatic defrost cycle to prevent excessive frost from accumulating around the evaporator.
During defrosting:
- Active cooling temporarily pauses.
- The evaporator area warms.
- Frost melts.
- Water moves towards the drain.
- Cooling restarts.
- The evaporator and surrounding panels become cold again.
These temperature changes may produce:
- Popping
- Cracking
- Clicking
- Sizzling
- Hissing
- Dripping
- Gurgling
- Running-water sounds
GE explains that cracking or popping can occur as evaporator coils cool after a defrost cycle. Whirlpool also identifies defrosting as a common time for normal expansion and contraction noises.
Why the First Defrost Cycles May Sound Louder
During the first day of operation, the refrigerator is still stabilising. Its surfaces and components may experience wider temperature changes than they will later.
The kitchen is also unfamiliar with the appliance’s sound pattern. A sound that initially seems alarming may become less noticeable once you recognise when and why it occurs.
When Defrost Noise May Indicate a Problem
Arrange an inspection if popping occurs with:
- Heavy frost on the freezer’s rear wall
- Weak airflow
- A rapidly tapping or scraping fan
- Water repeatedly leaking onto the floor
- The refrigerator compartment becoming warm
- Food beginning to thaw
- A persistent error code
These symptoms may point to a defrost, drainage, fan, gasket, or airflow problem rather than normal material movement.
4. The Compressor Is Starting or Changing Speed
The compressor circulates refrigerant through the cooling system.
During the first day, it may operate for longer periods because the refrigerator must remove a large amount of heat. Depending on the model, it may also change speed as the internal temperature approaches the selected setting.
Normal compressor-related sounds may include:
- A click
- A low hum
- A soft thump
- Pulsating
- A change in pitch
- A brief pop when operation changes
A single click or pop followed by steady compressor operation is usually normal.
When Compressor Clicking Is More Concerning
Listen for a repeating pattern such as:
Click, silence, click, silence
If the compressor repeatedly attempts to start but does not continue running, and the refrigerator is not becoming cold, the problem may involve:
- The power supply
- A compressor start component
- A control board
- Compressor overheating
- The compressor itself
Do not remove the compressor terminal cover or test live electrical components. A new refrigerator with repeated start attempts and no cooling should be reported under its installation, return, or warranty process.
5. Refrigerant Is Moving Through the Cooling System
As the new refrigerator starts cooling, refrigerant begins circulating through its pipes, evaporator, condenser, and compressor.
The changing pressure may produce:
- Gurgling
- Bubbling
- Hissing
- Tapping
- Light knocking
- Occasional popping
Samsung identifies bubbling sounds as refrigerant moving through the pipes while the refrigerator cools or freezes food. GE also lists refrigerant movement and pressure changes among normal refrigerator sounds.
The sealed refrigerant system is not a DIY service area.
Do not:
- Bend exposed tubing
- Remove compressor covers
- Puncture a cooling line
- Apply heat to tubing
- Attempt to add refrigerant
- Loosen sealed-system connections
If a pipe appears damaged after delivery or oily residue is visible around it, stop troubleshooting and contact the installer or manufacturer.
6. The Ice Maker Is Filling for the First Time
A new refrigerator with an automatic ice maker may produce several unfamiliar sounds after its water supply is connected.
A normal ice-making cycle may include:
- The water inlet valve opens.
- Water flows into the ice mould.
- The water freezes.
- The ice maker releases the cubes.
- The cubes fall into the storage bin.
- The valve opens again for the next cycle.
You may hear:
- Buzzing
- Clicking
- Water flowing
- A brief pop
- Ice cracking
- A loud bang as cubes fall
Air trapped in a new plumbing line can also cause the ice maker to complete several partial or empty cycles before producing a full batch. Frigidaire notes that air in new lines may result in two or three empty cycles, while GE states that a new ice maker may purge air by cycling several times before filling normally.
How Long Before a New Ice Maker Produces Ice?
The exact time varies by model and installation conditions.
Manufacturer guidance commonly advises allowing up to 24 hours for a newly installed refrigerator or ice maker to begin normal ice production. Some models may start sooner, while completely filling the storage bin can take considerably longer.
Do not assume that a pop from the freezer means the ice maker is broken. Check whether new cubes have appeared in the bin.
7. Ice Is Falling Into an Empty Bin
The first batches of ice can sound surprisingly loud because the storage bucket is empty.
A cube falling onto hard plastic may sound like:
- A pop
- A crack
- A bang
- A knock
- A small object hitting the freezer wall
Whirlpool confirms that ice being ejected from the ice maker and falling into an empty bucket can create a loud cracking or banging sound.
The impact normally becomes less noticeable as more ice accumulates in the bin.
How to Test the Ice Maker
Temporarily turn the ice maker off using the switch or control described in your model’s manual.
If the popping stops, it was probably related to:
- Ice release
- Falling cubes
- Water-valve operation
- Air in the supply line
- A moving ice bin
Do not force the ice tray, ejector fingers, gears, or motor.
8. The Ice Maker Is On Without a Water Connection
If an ice maker is switched on before the water supply is connected, its inlet valve may repeatedly attempt to fill the system.
This can produce:
- Buzzing
- Chattering
- Clicking
- A popping-like sound
Whirlpool advises switching off an ice maker that is not connected to a water supply because leaving it on can produce unnecessary noise and affect operation.
If your refrigerator has no water connection:
- Locate the ice-maker control.
- Switch it off according to the manual.
- Do not force a wire shutoff arm.
- Confirm that both ice makers are off on a dual-ice model.
The control location differs among refrigerators, so use the instructions for your exact model.
9. The Water Line Is Tapping Against the Refrigerator
A newly installed water line may touch:
- The rear panel
- The wall
- A kitchen cabinet
- The floor
- Another pipe
- The power cord
When the water valve opens or closes, the line can move and create a pop, knock, or tapping sound.
Check the visible line behind the refrigerator. It should not be:
- Kinked
- Crushed
- Trapped beneath a wheel
- Pulled excessively tight
- Striking the wall
- Vibrating against a metal panel
- Leaking
Do not pull the refrigerator forward without checking that the water line has enough slack.
Switch off the water supply and contact the installer if you find leaking, a damaged connector, or a crushed line.
10. The Refrigerator Is Not Level
An unlevel refrigerator can amplify normal cabinet, compressor, water-line, and door noises.

The appliance may:
- Rock when a door opens
- Twist slightly under the weight of the doors
- Transfer vibration into the floor
- Place uneven pressure on interior panels
- Allow shelves or bottles to move
- Cause doors to become misaligned
- Prevent gaskets from sealing evenly
Whirlpool advises levelling a newly installed refrigerator according to its owner’s manual and recommends switching off power before moving or adjusting it.
How to Check the Level
Use a spirit level and check:
- The cabinet from side to side.
- The cabinet from front to back.
- Whether the refrigerator rocks.
- Whether the levelling feet contact the floor.
- Whether the doors align.
- Whether the doors close correctly.
The correct final position varies by model. Some refrigerators require the front to sit slightly higher than the rear so the doors close properly.
Always follow the installation guide rather than applying one levelling measurement to every model.
11. The Cabinet Is Touching a Wall or Kitchen Unit
A refrigerator’s hollow cabinet can transfer and amplify vibration.
A normal internal pop may sound much louder when the appliance touches:
- The rear wall
- A side cabinet
- Countertop trim
- A water pipe
- Another appliance
- The power cord
- A decorative kitchen panel
Move the refrigerator slightly away from nearby surfaces and listen for a change.
Installation clearance differs by model. Frigidaire advises measuring the complete installation space and allowing enough room for ventilation and door movement.
Do not guess the required clearance. Check the installation instructions supplied with your refrigerator.
12. Packaging or Shipping Material Remains in Place
New refrigerators often contain removable shipping materials such as:
- Tape
- Cardboard
- Plastic film
- Foam blocks
- Shelf spacers
- Drawer restraints
- Protective corner pieces
- Ice-bin packing
- Door-handle protection
A loose piece may move when the compressor starts or when cold air begins circulating.
Inspect the accessible areas listed in the installation guide:
- Around shelves
- Beneath drawers
- Inside door bins
- Around the ice bucket
- Behind removable protective film
- Near the toe grille
- Around exterior panels
Remove only material clearly identified as packaging.
Do Not Remove Every Piece of Foam You See
Some foam inside a refrigerator is permanent insulation rather than shipping material.
GE specifically warns that Styrofoam around temperature controls, vents, tubing, and other components may be structural insulation and should not be removed.
When you are unsure whether a foam piece belongs in the refrigerator:
- Check the installation manual.
- Compare it with product diagrams.
- Photograph it.
- Ask the installer or manufacturer.
- Do not pull or cut it out.
Removing permanent insulation can damage the appliance and may require service.
13. Shelves, Drawers, or Door Bins Are Not Fully Seated

Shelves and storage components are often secured for transportation. After unpacking, one may remain slightly out of position.
Normal compressor or fan vibration can then cause it to move suddenly and create a pop.
Check:
- Glass shelves
- Crisper drawers
- Pantry drawers
- Door bins
- Freezer baskets
- Ice buckets
- Removable trays
- Folding shelves
- Bottle racks
Remove and reinstall each loose component according to the owner’s manual.
Do not force a shelf. It may be attached to a water-filter housing, drawer system, or locking tab.
14. Bottles and Containers Are Touching
Glass bottles and jars can turn a small refrigerator vibration into a sharp pop or knock.
This is more common when:
- Containers are packed tightly.
- Bottles touch the interior wall.
- Jars sit against a shelf bracket.
- Items rest on top of the refrigerator.
- A tall item touches an air vent.
- A bottle leans against the door.
Leave a small gap between hard containers and remove loose objects from the top of the appliance.
If the sound disappears, the refrigerator may have been operating normally while the stored items amplified its vibration.
15. The New Door Gaskets Are Very Tight
New refrigerator gaskets can be stiff and create a strong seal.
This may cause:
- A squeak
- A whistle
- A brief pop when the seal releases
- The refrigerator to move slightly when a door opens
- Another door to move when one closes
GE explains that new refrigerator gaskets may whistle or squeak because they initially seal very tightly, and that the sound may stop after the gasket becomes more flexible.
Check that:
- The gasket is clean.
- It is not folded.
- The door is correctly aligned.
- No food package blocks closure.
- The refrigerator is level.
- All packing tape has been removed.
Do not apply oils or general-purpose lubricants to the gasket unless the manufacturer specifically recommends a product.
16. The Refrigerator Is Recovering After Warm Food Was Added
Loading a large amount of room-temperature or warm food increases the cooling demand.
The compressor and fans may run longer, and the cabinet may experience additional temperature movement. Samsung notes that refrigerator noise can increase when warm food is added or a door has been left open for an extended period.
To reduce unnecessary cycling:
- Allow hot food to cool appropriately before refrigeration.
- Avoid blocking internal air vents.
- Do not overfill the compartments.
- Keep door openings brief.
- Give the appliance time to recover.
A temporary increase in popping during temperature recovery is usually not a fault.
17. The Refrigerator Was Plugged In Too Soon After Transport
Refrigerators can be tilted during delivery. Depending on the model and how it was transported, the manufacturer may require it to remain upright before being connected to power.
The required waiting period is not universal.
It can depend on:
- Whether the appliance remained upright
- How far it was tilted
- Refrigerator design
- Compressor type
- Manufacturer instructions
- Duration of transportation
Follow the installation manual or ask the delivery company for the exact procedure.
Do not unplug a normally cooling refrigerator simply because you are unsure. Contact the manufacturer with the model number and explain how the appliance was transported.
How Long Are Popping Noises Normal in a New Refrigerator?
There is no single deadline that applies to every refrigerator.
A practical guide is:
During the First 24 Hours
More frequent popping may occur as the refrigerator:
- Cools from room temperature
- Runs its compressor for long periods
- Begins its first defrost cycles
- Circulates refrigerant
- Fills its ice maker
- Adjusts its cabinet materials
Manufacturers commonly advise allowing approximately 24 hours for temperatures to stabilise.
During the First Few Days
The sounds may become less frequent as:
- Interior temperatures stabilise
- Cabinet materials settle
- The ice bin begins to fill
- The water line clears trapped air
- Shelves and stored items settle
- The door gaskets become more flexible
After the Refrigerator Has Stabilised
Occasional popping can continue throughout the refrigerator’s life. Cooling and defrost cycles always involve temperature changes.
The sound is more likely to require service when it:
- Becomes continuous
- Gets progressively louder
- Is clearly audible throughout the home
- Changes into grinding or scraping
- Appears with cooling failure
- Is accompanied by an error code
- Is linked to leaking or electrical symptoms
Samsung recommends requesting service when cracking, snapping, or popping becomes unusually loud rather than remaining a minor operating sound.
How to Locate the Source of the Popping Noise
Do not start removing panels. First, identify the pattern.
Step 1: Note When It Happens
Record whether the sound occurs:
- Immediately after plugging in
- When the compressor starts
- When the compressor stops
- During or after defrosting
- When ice falls
- When the water valve opens
- When a door opens
- When a door closes
- After loading groceries
- Every few seconds
- Only once or twice per hour
The timing can quickly narrow the possible cause.
Step 2: Identify the General Location
Inside the refrigerator compartment: Check shelves, bottles, drawers, air ducts, door bins, and the interior liner.
Inside the freezer: Consider the ice maker, falling ice, freezer baskets, defrosting, or fan operation.
At the lower rear: Consider the compressor, water valve, water line, refrigerant tubing, or wall contact.
At a door: Check the gasket, hinge, alignment, and any centre flap.
Behind the appliance: Look for a trapped cord, moving water line, packing material, or contact with the wall.
Do not reach near exposed wiring, compressor terminals, or moving fans.
Step 3: Check Whether Cooling Is Improving
Use an appliance thermometer if possible.
During the first day, check whether:
- The refrigerator compartment is becoming colder.
- Frozen food remains solid after the freezer stabilises.
- Cold air moves through the vents.
- The compressor remains operational.
- The doors seal completely.
- No high-temperature warning remains active.
Do not judge the appliance after only a brief period of operation. Allow the model’s recommended stabilisation time.
Step 4: Record the Sound
A short recording can help the installer or manufacturer identify an intermittent problem.
Capture:
- The sound itself
- The area where it is loudest
- The control-panel display
- The refrigerator’s position
- Ice-maker activity
- Door movement
- Visible vibration
- The model label
Record the sound from a safe distance without removing protective panels.
How to Stop or Reduce New-Refrigerator Popping Noises
Normal thermal popping cannot always be eliminated. You can still reduce noise caused by installation and loose components.
Step 1: Allow the Refrigerator to Stabilise
Give the appliance the time recommended in its manual, commonly around 24 hours, before assuming that normal initial sounds indicate a fault.
Avoid repeatedly changing the temperature controls.
Step 2: Confirm the Appliance Is Level
Use a spirit level and adjust the levelling feet according to the installation guide.
Make sure the refrigerator:
- Does not rock
- Sits securely on the floor
- Has aligned doors
- Does not roll when opened
- Is not twisted between cabinets
New installations are particularly prone to movement until the levelling or brake feet are correctly set.
Step 3: Check the Installation Clearance
Make sure the refrigerator is not touching:
- The wall
- Side cabinets
- Countertop trim
- Pipes
- Another appliance
Confirm the required rear, side, and top spacing in the manual.
Step 4: Inspect the Water Line
Check that the visible line is:
- Connected securely
- Free from kinks
- Not crushed
- Not trapped beneath the refrigerator
- Not striking the wall
- Not leaking
Turn off the household water valve and contact the installer if a connection leaks.
Step 5: Turn Off an Unused Ice Maker
If no water line is connected, switch off the ice maker according to the manual.
This can stop repeated valve buzzing or clicking.
Step 6: Remove Identified Packing Materials
Remove tape, cardboard, plastic film, spacers, and foam blocks only when the installation guide identifies them as shipping material.
Do not remove permanent insulation foam.
Step 7: Reseat Shelves and Bins
Check that shelves, drawers, freezer baskets, ice bins, and door bins are correctly installed.
Step 8: Separate Bottles and Containers
Leave a small gap between hard containers and keep them away from the cabinet walls.
Step 9: Check the Door Gaskets
Make sure each gasket:
- Is clean
- Is not folded
- Makes even contact
- Is not obstructed by packaging
- Allows the door to close fully
Step 10: Monitor the Sound
Keep a short log for the first several days.
Record:
- Time
- Frequency
- Location
- Refrigerator temperature
- Freezer temperature
- Compressor activity
- Ice-maker activity
- Any warning code
A clear pattern will help distinguish normal operating sounds from a fault.
Safe DIY Checks You Can Perform
You can safely:
- Monitor the compartment temperatures.
- Use a spirit level.
- Check installation clearance.
- Inspect the visible water line.
- Remove clearly identified packaging.
- Reseat removable shelves and bins.
- Separate bottles and containers.
- Turn off an unused ice maker.
- Inspect the door gaskets.
- Record the noise.
- Locate the model and serial numbers.
Avoid attempting to:
- Open the sealed refrigeration system
- Test live compressor terminals
- Remove unidentified insulation
- Force ice-maker components
- Bypass a safety control
- Remove hidden ice with a sharp tool
- Apply direct heat to the freezer liner
- Continue operating an appliance that smells burnt
When Should You Contact the Installer?
Contact the delivery or installation company when:
- The refrigerator rocks or cannot be levelled.
- The cabinet touches the wall or kitchen unit because it was positioned incorrectly.
- Shipping materials were not removed.
- A door is visibly misaligned.
- The water connection leaks.
- The supply line is kinked or crushed.
- The power cord was damaged during installation.
- The refrigerator arrived dented, twisted, or physically damaged.
- The appliance was connected contrary to its installation instructions.
- The popping began immediately after a questionable installation issue.
Take photographs before moving or adjusting anything that may affect an installation claim.
When Should You Contact the Manufacturer or Retailer?
Contact the manufacturer, retailer, or authorised service provider when:
- The popping is extremely loud.
- It occurs continuously.
- The refrigerator is not cooling after the recommended stabilisation period.
- The compressor repeatedly clicks without staying on.
- A fan scrapes or taps rapidly.
- Heavy frost develops.
- Water leaks from inside the cabinet.
- A persistent error code appears.
- One compartment cools while another remains warm.
- The doors cannot be aligned or sealed.
- A refrigerant pipe appears damaged.
- The sound becomes worse rather than less noticeable.
Frigidaire advises scheduling service when a refrigerator has been operating for approximately 24 hours and still does not cool. Samsung likewise recommends service when popping or cracking is unusually loud.
For a brand-new appliance, use the warranty or return process before paying an independent technician or disassembling the refrigerator.
When Should You Disconnect the Refrigerator?
An occasional pop with normal cooling does not require unplugging the appliance.
Disconnect power, provided it is safe to do so, if you notice:
- Smoke
- Sparks
- A strong burning smell
- A melting-plastic smell
- A damaged power cord
- An unusually hot plug or outlet
- Repeated circuit-breaker trips
- An electrical shock or tingling sensation
Electrical products can pose shock and fire risks when damaged or used incorrectly.
Do not reach behind the refrigerator if active sparking, smoke, leaking water, or melted wiring makes the area unsafe. Switch off the appropriate circuit at the electrical panel only when it can be done safely.
Frequently Asked Questions
Why Is My Brand-New Refrigerator Making Loud Popping Noises?
A new refrigerator experiences a significant temperature change during its first cooling period. Plastic liners, cabinet panels, tubing, shelves, and insulation may pop as they contract.
The sound may also come from the first defrost cycles, ice production, refrigerant movement, or installation vibration.
Investigate further if the popping is continuous, worsening, or accompanied by poor cooling.
How Long Will a New Refrigerator Make Popping Noises?
More frequent popping is common during the first 24 hours while temperatures stabilise. The noise may gradually become less noticeable over the following days.
Occasional thermal pops can continue throughout the appliance’s life because cooling and defrost cycles always create temperature changes.
Is Popping Normal During the First 24 Hours?
Yes. The first 24 hours involve initial cooling, long compressor cycles, early defrost activity, cabinet contraction, and sometimes the first ice-making cycles.
Manufacturers commonly advise allowing approximately 24 hours for stable operation.
Why Does My New Refrigerator Pop at Night?
Refrigerator sounds are easier to hear when the home is quiet.
The appliance may also enter a defrost cycle, restart its compressor, adjust cooling, or release ice during the night.
Why Does My New Refrigerator Pop When the Compressor Starts?
Starting the compressor changes vibration, temperature, and refrigerant pressure. A brief pop followed by steady cooling is usually harmless.
Repeated clicking without sustained compressor operation requires professional attention.
Why Does My New Refrigerator Pop After the Compressor Stops?
After cooling stops, refrigerant pressure begins to equalise and some cabinet components warm slightly.
A panel or cooling tube may shift and create a brief pop.
Why Does My New Refrigerator Pop During Defrosting?
The evaporator area warms during defrosting and becomes cold again afterwards. Coils, liners, panels, frost, and drain water respond to those changes.
GE and Whirlpool both identify popping around defrost cycles as normal refrigerator operation.
Can a New Ice Maker Make a Popping Noise?
Yes. The valve may click or buzz while filling, ice may crack as it leaves the mould, and cubes can make a loud pop when they fall into an empty bin.
The water line may also contain air during the first few ice-making cycles.
Why Is My New Refrigerator Buzzing and Popping Without Making Ice?
The ice maker may still be waiting for the freezer to become cold enough, air may be trapped in the new water line, or the water supply may not be connected.
Check that:
- The household valve is open.
- The line is not kinked.
- The ice maker is switched on.
- The refrigerator has had enough time to cool.
Turn off the ice maker if no water supply is connected.
Should I Turn Off the Ice Maker?
Turn it off when:
- No water line is connected.
- The supply valve is closed.
- You are testing whether the popping comes from ice production.
- The manual instructs you to do so.
Do not force a shutoff arm or mechanism.
Can Poor Levelling Make a New Refrigerator Pop?
Yes. An unlevel refrigerator can twist the cabinet slightly, amplify vibration, shift shelves, affect door alignment, and make a water line strike the rear panel.
Check the appliance with a spirit level and follow the model-specific instructions.
Can Packaging Cause Popping Sounds?
Loose tape, cardboard, shelf spacers, or other shipping materials can move as the refrigerator operates.
Remove only packaging identified in the installation guide. Some foam inside the refrigerator is permanent insulation and must remain in place.
Why Does My New Refrigerator Door Pop?
A new door gasket may initially create a tight seal. The refrigerator may also be out of level, or the hinge and closing mechanism may be settling.
Check whether the pop occurs only while opening or closing the door. Door-specific popping may involve the gasket, hinge, closing cam, or alignment rather than the cooling system.
Should I Reset a New Refrigerator Because It Pops?
Usually not.
Resetting will not stop normal cabinet contraction, refrigerant movement, defrost sounds, or falling ice. It may also clear an error code that could help diagnose a genuine problem.
Use a reset only when the manufacturer’s instructions recommend it for a specific issue.
Should I Change the Temperature Setting?
Avoid making repeated adjustments during the first 24 hours.
Give the refrigerator time to respond to its current setting. Changing it repeatedly can extend the stabilisation period.
Use the recommended initial settings in your model’s manual.
Is It Normal for a New Refrigerator to Run Constantly?
A newly installed refrigerator may run for long periods while cooling the cabinet and its contents. Newer energy-efficient compressors may also operate differently from older compressors.
The running time should become more settled after temperatures stabilise. Poor cooling, overheating, or repeated start failures require investigation.
Can I Put Food in a New Refrigerator Immediately?
Follow the manufacturer’s instructions.
Many manufacturers recommend allowing the refrigerator to reach a stable, food-safe temperature before loading it fully. Whirlpool advises allowing approximately 24 hours for full functionality, although the actual time depends on the appliance and installation conditions.
Use an appliance thermometer when you need to confirm the actual temperature.
Should I Unplug a New Refrigerator That Is Popping?
An occasional pop with improving cooling does not require unplugging.
Disconnect it if the noise is accompanied by smoke, sparks, a burning smell, electrical shock, a damaged cord, an overheating outlet, or repeated breaker trips.
Can I Request a Replacement Because of Popping Noises?
Normal operating sounds alone may not indicate a defect.
Contact the retailer promptly when the refrigerator also has:
- Physical delivery damage
- Continuous extreme noise
- Cooling failure
- Water leaks
- Misaligned doors
- Electrical problems
- An unresolved error code
Document the sound, model number, installation date, temperatures, and visible damage before contacting the retailer.
Final Thoughts
So, why is your new refrigerator making popping noises?
In most cases, the appliance is simply cooling and settling into normal operation. The interior liner, metal panels, shelves, insulation, and cooling components contract as their temperatures fall. Initial defrost cycles, refrigerant movement, compressor operation, and the first ice-making cycles can create additional pops, clicks, cracks, and bangs.
Begin by allowing the refrigerator to stabilise. Confirm that it is cooling, level the cabinet, provide the required clearance, inspect the visible water line, remove only identified packaging, reseat the shelves, and observe the ice maker.
More frequent popping during the first 24 hours is usually normal. Occasional pops may continue after the refrigerator has stabilised because temperature changes are part of everyday operation.
Contact the installer or manufacturer when the noise is continuous, extremely loud, or accompanied by poor cooling, heavy frost, fan scraping, leaking, persistent error codes, smoke, burning smells, or electrical problems.
Always use the complete model number when checking instructions. Cooling systems, ice makers, transport requirements, levelling procedures, clearances, and normal sounds vary between refrigerator models.

Hi, I’m the lead researcher and appliance enthusiast behind RefrigeratorSolve. With years of hands-on experience troubleshooting cooling systems and testing home appliances, I am dedicated to bringing you honest reviews, energy-saving tips, and practical solutions to keep your refrigerator running perfectly.





